HANGING OUT IN THE ZÓCALO
For sitting and relaxing or having a drink or snack in the zócalo --- and everyone should try to spend at least a few hours in the city's main plaza --- there are innumerable choices.
The Marquéz del Valle Hotel on the north side used to be THE place to see and be seen, But several years ago it built a railing along the veranda and glassed in its side entrances, isolating itself from the hubbub of the square. If you like exclusivity, this is for you. But if you want the real feel of the zócalo, choose one of the more people-friendly cafés along the east and west sides. Some offer mainly antojitos; others feature full menus. Just remember one goes to the zócalo for its ambience, not for the gourmet food.
Our longtime favorite for drinks, light meals, and people-watching is the unassuming Bar el Jardín at the southwest corner of the square. A marimba band plays here nightly from 9-10:30PM, and on Wednesday evenings, danzón continues here in the Portal.
But check out all the options; there's a café here to suit every taste and budget.