From page 27 of Oaxaca Tips
Itanoní $-$$  (map p.25, #3)
Belisario Dominguez 513, Colonia Reforma
Monday - Saturday: 7AM-4PM;  Sunday: 8AM-2PM
This small, unassuming café, named for the Mixtec term for corn flower, makes, hands down, the best tortillas in town, using only Oaxacan maíz criollo (native or "heirloom" corns) grown by small family producers. The masa is fine-ground on a metate (stone mortar) and the tortillas shaped by hand and cooked on a comal (clay griddle). If the only tortillas you've ever tasted are those bland, limp things cranked out by machine from reconstituted masa harina (produced from cheap American-imported corn!) - and your chances of being invited to a village fiesta meal are slim to none - then hie yourself over to Itanoní for a delectable lunch of tacos or quesadillas made with "real" tortillas. Or buy a stack of tortillas to take away. Tel: 514-6833.